Summer Grooming Guide: Cooling Vests, Coat Care by Breed, Age, Coat Type & Color, Hydration

Summer Grooming Guide: Cooling Vests, Coat Care by Breed, Age, Coat Type & Color, Hydration

, 21 min reading time

Heat affects dogs very differently than people. Learn how to adjust coat care by breed, age, coat color and length, choose the right cooling vest, keep your dog hydrated, and recognize early heatstroke signs.  

Summer Grooming Guide: Cooling Vests, Coat Care by Breed, Age, Coat Type, Color & Hydration

Summer changes everything about how a dog's body works. Heat affects dogs very differently from how it affects people — dogs cool down mainly through panting and through the pads of their paws, not by sweating across the skin. That means coat care, hydration, walking schedules, and even grooming tools all need small but important adjustments once the temperature rises.

This guide goes beyond the basics. We'll cover how to approach summer grooming based on your dog's coat length and coat color, how needs change by breed type, age, and reproductive status, what city dogs need that countryside dogs often don't, how cooling vests and mats actually work, how to keep dogs properly hydrated, and how to recognize the early signs of heat stress and heatstroke before they become an emergency.

Summer Grooming by Coat Length and Coat Type

Before thinking about breed, age, or anything else, the single biggest factor in summer grooming is coat type. A dog's coat is not just "fur" — it's an active part of their temperature regulation system, and how you groom it in summer can either help or seriously hurt that system.

Coat Type Summer Risk Recommended Summer Grooming Example Breeds
Double coat (soft undercoat + coarser topcoat) Overheating if undercoat is matted; sunburn and disrupted regrowth if shaved Frequent deep brushing with an undercoat rake and slicker brush; never shave to the skin Golden Retriever, Husky, German Shepherd, Samoyed, Corgi, Akita
Long single coat Heat trapped close to the body; matting in humidity, especially around legs and ears Trim to a manageable length (5–8 cm), keep ears and feathering brushed daily Yorkshire Terrier, Maltese, Shih Tzu, Afghan Hound
Curly or "wool" coat Traps moisture after swimming or rain, leading to hot spots and mats A shorter summer clip is usually fine, but leave at least 1–1.5 cm for skin protection Poodle, Bichon Frise, Cockapoo, Bedlington Terrier
Wire or harsh coat Less heat-trapping than other types, but clipping repeatedly softens texture and reduces natural weather resistance Hand-stripping in season is ideal; if clipping, do it more often in light passes rather than one drastic cut Schnauzer, Wire Fox Terrier, Border Terrier
Short, smooth coat Minimal insulation means more direct sun exposure to skin; thin areas (belly, ear tips, nose bridge) can sunburn Weekly brushing with a rubber curry brush or grooming glove; sunscreen on exposed skin Labrador, Boxer, Beagle, Dachshund
Hairless or near-hairless Very high sunburn risk; skin can overheat or burn quickly in direct sun Daily sunscreen on all exposed skin, lightweight UV-protective clothing, shade at all times Xoloitzcuintli, Chinese Crested

Why "shave it short" is the wrong answer for most dogs

It's one of the most persistent myths in dog care: that shaving a dog down for summer will keep them cooler. For double-coated and most long or curly-coated breeds, the opposite is usually true.

  • The coat insulates against heat, not just cold. A healthy double coat traps a layer of air close to the skin that helps regulate temperature in both directions.
  • Shaved skin sunburns. Coat protects against UV rays. Without it, the risk of sunburn — and over years, skin damage — increases significantly.
  • Regrowth can be uneven or patchy, sometimes permanently, a condition often called "clipper alopecia" in double-coated breeds.
  • A matted, dirty coat is hot — a clean, brushed coat is not. The real issue with overheating in heavy-coated dogs is usually trapped dead undercoat, not the coat itself.

The single most effective summer grooming action for double-coated and thick-coated dogs is thorough, regular brushing to remove the dead undercoat (a process often called "blowing coat"). For tools, our Undercoat Removal Tools and Brushes & Combs collections cover everything from undercoat rakes to slicker brushes designed for this job.

Summer Grooming by Coat Color

Coat color isn't usually the first thing people think about for summer care, but it genuinely affects how a dog experiences heat and sun.

Dark and black coats

Dark colors absorb more heat from direct sunlight than light colors do. A black-coated dog lying in full sun on a hot day will often have a noticeably warmer coat surface than a cream or white dog in the same spot. This doesn't mean dark-coated dogs overheat internally faster on its own, but it does mean:

  • Shade becomes more important during the hottest hours (typically 11am–4pm).
  • Dark coats can make heat build-up on the surface less obvious to the eye — always check by touch, not just by looking.
  • Avoid leaving dark-coated dogs in direct sun inside a car or on hot decking, where surface heat builds quickly.

White, cream and light coats

Light-colored coats reflect more heat, but the skin underneath — especially on the nose, ear tips, and along the back where the coat may be thinner — is often more sensitive to UV exposure. Dogs with white or light coats and pink (unpigmented) skin are at higher risk of sunburn, which over time can contribute to skin damage.

  • Apply a pet-safe sunscreen to the nose, ear tips, and any thin-coated or pink-skinned areas before time outdoors. Our Sunscreen Spray for Pets is formulated specifically for this.
  • White coats can also show grass stains, dirt, and tear staining more visibly in summer — more frequent face and paw cleaning helps keep things looking and feeling fresh.

Merle, dilute, and patterned coats

Dogs with merle, blue, or other "dilute" color genetics sometimes have more sensitive skin and a higher likelihood of pink or unpigmented patches (around the nose, lips, or eye rims). These areas deserve the same sun protection as a fully light-coated dog, even if the rest of the coat is dark.

Summer Grooming by Breed Type

Breed groups tend to share certain summer challenges. Here's how to think about the most common categories.

Double-coated breeds (Huskies, Goldens, Shepherds, Samoyeds, Corgis, Akitas)

As covered above, the priority is brushing, not cutting. During a heavy shedding period, daily or near-daily brushing sessions for 10–15 minutes make a real difference. These breeds also tend to do best with exercise scheduled for early morning or evening, since their coats and body type were built for cooler climates.

Single-coated and curly-coated breeds (Poodles, Bichons, Cockapoos, Maltese, Shih Tzus)

These breeds have the most flexibility for a true "summer cut" — a shorter, more manageable trim that reduces matting risk, especially around the legs, ears, and underbelly where moisture collects after walks or swimming. A length of around 1.5–2.5 cm is often a good balance between coolness and skin protection. Regular face, paw, and sanitary trims also help keep these breeds comfortable when they're more active outdoors.

Brachycephalic (flat-faced) breeds (Bulldogs, Pugs, French Bulldogs, Boston Terriers)

Flat-faced breeds have a harder time panting efficiently, which is their main cooling mechanism — this makes them significantly more vulnerable to overheating and heatstroke than other breeds, even on moderately warm days. For these dogs:

  • Keep walks short and scheduled for the coolest parts of the day.
  • Cooling vests and mats (covered below) are particularly valuable for this group.
  • Watch for heavy snoring-like breathing, blue or very dark gums, or collapse — these are emergency signs and should never be "waited out."
  • Even short coats on these breeds benefit from regular brushing to keep skin folds clean and reduce irritation, which can worsen in heat and humidity.

Hairless or near-hairless breeds (Xoloitzcuintli, Chinese Crested)

For these dogs, summer grooming is really summer skin care. Daily sunscreen on all exposed skin is essential, along with lightweight, breathable clothing for extended time outdoors. Their skin can also be more prone to dryness, so a gentle, fragrance-free moisturizing balm is often part of their routine even in summer.

Summer Grooming by Age

Puppies

Puppies regulate their body temperature less efficiently than adult dogs and can overheat or become dehydrated faster. Summer grooming for puppies should focus on:

  • Gentle introduction to brushing and bathing routines using lukewarm (not cold) water — this builds positive associations for life.
  • Shorter outdoor sessions during peak heat, with frequent water breaks.
  • Extra care with sunscreen on puppies with light or thin coats, since their skin is more delicate.
  • Avoiding any clipping that removes too much coat — puppy coats are still developing and don't yet provide full protection.

Adult dogs

Adult dogs generally handle heat best, but summer is also when shedding "blowouts" are most noticeable in double-coated breeds, and when active dogs (running, swimming, hiking) need the most attention to hydration and paw care. This is the life stage where a consistent brushing and hydration routine pays off the most.

Senior dogs

Older dogs often have a harder time regulating temperature, may have reduced mobility that makes it harder to move to shade, and can have health conditions (heart or respiratory issues, arthritis) that make heat more dangerous. For senior dogs:

  • Shorter, more frequent walks rather than one long outing.
  • Cooling mats for resting areas, especially if the dog spends time on a balcony or in a sunroom.
  • Extra attention to joints after swimming or cooling-mat use — towel dry thoroughly to avoid chills from evaporative cooling once the dog is out of direct heat.
  • More frequent water bowl checks, since some senior dogs reduce their water intake without owners noticing.

Summer Grooming Considerations by Sex and Reproductive Status

While coat care itself doesn't differ dramatically between male and female dogs of the same breed, reproductive status does bring a few practical summer considerations worth knowing about.

Intact females and heat cycles

An intact female dog in season needs extra hygiene attention, and this becomes more noticeable in summer when flies and other insects are more active. Keeping the area clean, using washable or disposable hygiene wraps if needed, and more frequent gentle cleaning with pet-safe wipes can help prevent irritation and reduce the attention of insects. Our Sensitive Skin Wipes are a gentle option for this kind of frequent cleaning.

Pregnant and nursing dogs

Pregnant and nursing dogs have higher hydration and energy needs, and they can be more sensitive to heat, particularly in the final weeks of pregnancy when movement becomes harder. For these dogs:

  • Make sure water is always easily accessible — multiple water stations around the home can help.
  • Avoid any grooming that involves restraint or long sessions; shorter, calmer sessions are better.
  • If trimming around the belly and nipple area for nursing access, use blunt-tipped scissors or a gentle clipper guard, and never shave this area completely bare, as it can increase the risk of sunburn or chafing if the dog rests outdoors.

Neutered and spayed dogs

Many neutered and spayed dogs develop a noticeably softer, thicker, sometimes more "cottony" coat texture — often called a "spay coat" or "neuter coat." This coat type tends to mat more easily, which matters in summer because matting traps heat and moisture against the skin. If your dog's coat has changed texture after neutering, you may need to increase brushing frequency, especially after swimming or rain.

City Dogs: Summer Care for Apartment and Urban Living

Dogs living in cities and apartments face a different set of summer challenges than dogs with constant access to grass, shade, and natural water sources.

Hot pavement and paw protection

Asphalt and concrete can reach temperatures far higher than the air temperature on a sunny day — hot enough to burn paw pads within seconds. A simple test: if you can't comfortably hold the back of your hand on the pavement for five seconds, it's too hot for your dog's paws.

  • Walk on grass or shaded paths whenever possible.
  • Schedule walks for early morning or after sunset.
  • Consider dog boots for very hot pavement, or a protective paw balm to help condition pads against heat and rough surfaces — see our Paw Balms & Care collection.

Apartment heat management

Apartments, especially those with large windows or on upper floors, can heat up significantly during the day. A cooling mat placed in the dog's favorite resting spot, combined with good airflow (fans, cross-ventilation) can make a real difference when air conditioning isn't available all day.

Balcony safety

Balconies can become extremely hot, especially with metal railings, dark tiles, or artificial turf, which can retain heat long after direct sun has passed. Always check surface temperatures before letting a dog spend time on a balcony, and never leave a dog unsupervised on a balcony during peak sun hours.

Urban grooming extras

City dogs are exposed to more pollution residue, road dust, and chemical de-icers (less relevant in summer, but worth noting for paw care year-round). A quick wipe-down of paws and belly after city walks — using a gentle cleansing wipe — helps remove residue before it's licked off or causes skin irritation. Our Coat Cleaning Wipes are designed for exactly this kind of quick daily clean-up.

Cooling Vests and Cooling Mats: How They Actually Work

Cooling vests, bandanas, and mats are widely available, but understanding how each type works helps you choose the right one and use it effectively.

Evaporative cooling vests

Most cooling vests use an evaporative cooling principle: the fabric is soaked in water, and as that water evaporates, it draws heat away from the dog's body. These work best in dry heat with some airflow — in very humid conditions, evaporation slows down, and a soaked vest can start to feel like a heavy wet blanket instead of a cooling layer.

To get the most from an evaporative vest:

  • Soak it fully in cold water and wring out excess — it should be damp, not dripping.
  • Re-soak every 1–2 hours during continuous activity, more often in direct sun or low humidity.
  • Make sure it covers the back and chest, where large blood vessels sit close to the skin.

Gel and ice-pack cooling vests

These contain cooling gel inserts chilled in a freezer before use. They provide a more intense, localized cooling effect and tend to work better than evaporative vests in humid climates. The trade-off is a shorter cooling duration and extra weight.

Cooling mats and pads

Pressure-activated gel mats stay cool to the touch without refrigeration, making them ideal for resting spots — at home, in the car, at outdoor cafés, or at dog shows. For dogs who spend a lot of time lying down outdoors in summer, a cooling mat can be just as valuable as a vest.

Browse our full range of Cooling & Reflective Vests for evaporative and gel options suitable for everyday walks, travel, and outdoor events.

Hydration: More Than Just "More Water"

Dogs lose a surprising amount of fluid through panting, especially during exercise in heat. Dehydration can build up gradually, and by the time a dog refuses water, it may already be significant.

Signs your dog may need more fluids

  • Dry or sticky gums (healthy gums should feel slightly wet)
  • Thick, ropey saliva
  • Reduced skin elasticity — gently lift the skin at the back of the neck; in a well-hydrated dog it should spring back quickly
  • Sunken eyes or noticeable lethargy
  • Reduced urination or darker urine than usual

Practical hydration tips for summer

  • Always carry water on walks, even short ones — especially for brachycephalic breeds, puppies, and seniors.
  • Add wet food or a splash of water to dry kibble during heatwaves as an easy way to increase fluid intake.
  • Use slow feeders for fast eaters — dogs who gulp food or water quickly are more prone to discomfort, which can be more noticeable after exercising in heat. Our Dog Slow Feeders and Dog Bowls collections include options designed to slow down eating and drinking.
  • Avoid exercise immediately after a big meal or a big drink in hot weather — give your dog time to settle both before and after walks.
  • Multiple water stations at home — especially useful in larger homes, multi-level apartments, or for senior dogs who may not want to walk far for water.

Sun Protection for Coat and Skin

Coat trimming and hydration usually get the spotlight in summer care, but exposed or thin-coated skin — on the nose, ear tips, belly, and any recently clipped areas — is vulnerable to sunburn, just like human skin. Dogs with white or light coats, pink skin, or very short hair are especially at risk, as are hairless breeds.

A pet-safe sunscreen spray, applied to exposed areas before time outdoors, is a simple addition to your summer routine — and reapplication matters just as much for dogs as it does for people, especially after swimming. Browse Sunscreen Spray for Pets for a broad-spectrum option formulated specifically for dogs.

Recognizing and Responding to Heat Stress

Even with good preparation, it's important to know what overheating looks like, because early signs are easy to miss — and heatstroke can progress quickly.

Early signs of heat stress

  • Heavy panting that doesn't slow down with rest
  • Excessive drooling
  • Bright red or very pale gums
  • Stumbling, weakness, or disorientation
  • Vomiting

What to do

If you notice these signs:

  1. Move your dog to shade or an air-conditioned space immediately.
  2. Offer small amounts of cool — not ice-cold — water.
  3. Wet the paws, belly, and ears with cool (not freezing) water to help dissipate heat gradually.
  4. Use a fan or airflow if available to support evaporative cooling.

Heatstroke is a medical emergency. If symptoms don't improve quickly, or your dog seems disoriented, collapses, has seizures, or vomits repeatedly, contact a veterinarian immediately rather than waiting it out at home.

A Complete Summer Grooming Checklist

  • Brush double and thick coats thoroughly and regularly to remove dead undercoat — never shave to the skin.
  • For single, curly, or wool coats, consider a moderate summer trim that leaves at least 1–1.5 cm of coat for skin protection.
  • Match grooming frequency to coat texture changes after spaying/neutering — "spay coats" mat faster.
  • Apply pet-safe sunscreen to noses, ear tips, bellies, and any thin or light-coated skin.
  • Keep a cooling vest or mat on hand for hot walks, travel, or outdoor events, and re-wet evaporative vests regularly.
  • Carry water on every walk and watch for early signs of dehydration.
  • Check pavement temperature before city walks, and protect paw pads with balm or boots if needed.
  • Give puppies and seniors shorter, more frequent outings rather than one long walk.
  • Wipe down paws and belly after city walks or swimming to remove residue and reduce matting risk.
  • Know the early signs of heat stress and have a cooling plan ready before you need it.

Frequently Asked Questions

1. Should I shave my double-coated dog in summer?

No. The double coat insulates against heat and protects against sunburn. Regular brushing to remove loose undercoat is far more effective and safer than shaving, and helps avoid issues like clipper alopecia.

2. Is it safe to clip a Poodle or Cockapoo short for summer?

Yes, for single and curly-coated breeds a shorter summer clip can help with heat and matting, but it's best to leave at least 1–1.5 cm of coat to protect the skin from sunburn and insect bites.

3. Do dark-coated dogs get hotter in summer than light-coated dogs?

The coat surface of dark-coated dogs absorbs more heat from direct sunlight, which can make a real difference when they're lying in full sun. Shade and surface-temperature awareness (for pavement, decking, and car interiors) matter for all coat colors, but especially for dark coats in direct sun.

4. How often should I re-wet a cooling vest?

In direct sun and active use, every 1–2 hours. In shade or with lower activity it can last longer, but check the fabric — once it feels dry, it's no longer providing evaporative cooling.

5. How much water does a dog need in summer?

There's no single number, since it depends on size, activity level, and temperature, but a general guideline is around 50–60 ml per kilogram of body weight per day, increasing with exercise and heat. Always make fresh water available and watch for the hydration signs described above.

6. Are cooling vests safe for puppies and senior dogs?

Yes, and they can be especially helpful for these groups, who often regulate body temperature less efficiently. Make sure the vest fits properly, doesn't restrict movement or breathing, and isn't left on so long that the dog becomes too cool or chilled, particularly for short-coated seniors.

7. Why does my dog's coat feel thicker and matt more easily after being spayed or neutered?

Hormonal changes after spaying or neutering often cause a softer, thicker, more cotton-like coat texture sometimes called a "spay coat." This texture tends to tangle and mat more easily, especially in humid summer weather, so more frequent brushing is usually needed.

8. Are flat-faced breeds (Bulldogs, Pugs, French Bulldogs) more at risk in summer?

Yes, significantly. Their airways make panting — a dog's main cooling method — less efficient, so they overheat faster than other breeds even on moderately warm days. Shorter walks during cooler hours, cooling aids, and close attention to breathing are especially important for these breeds.

9. How can I protect my dog's paws from hot pavement?

Walk during cooler hours (early morning or evening), stick to grass or shaded paths, and use the "five-second hand test" on pavement before walking your dog on it. Dog boots or a protective paw balm can add an extra layer of protection on unavoidably hot surfaces.

10. What's the difference between heat stress and heatstroke?

Heat stress refers to the early signs — heavy panting, drooling, restlessness — that occur as a dog's body works hard to cool down but is still managing. Heatstroke is when the body's cooling systems are overwhelmed, body temperature rises to dangerous levels, and symptoms like collapse, seizures, or repeated vomiting can occur. Heat stress can often be managed at home by cooling the dog down promptly; heatstroke requires immediate veterinary care.


Related guides

For more on managing coat changes through the year, see our shedding season and seasonal grooming calendar guides in the Grooming Guides section.

Shop the products mentioned

This article is for general information and does not replace veterinary advice. If your dog shows signs of heatstroke or severe dehydration, contact a veterinarian immediately.


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